How Tough is Kilnsey

Just back from a quick evening session at Kilnsey crag. Had a pretty fun evening, nothing was ticked and had a hard a time getting used to how tough this place is. Being only my second proper visit to the crag I am now really keen to get stuck into the crag. I have spent quite a bit of time over the last couple of years climbing Gritstone, and Gritstone slabs in particular, I have soon realized that slabs only give you string legs and the guns you need for crags like Kilnsey.

A little inspiration, Mark Leach on the FA of Mandela.

Elevating downwards

 I have been spending the last couple of weeks trying a great little route called Elevator. It is situated in a quarry on the edge of Ilkley Moor just outside Menston. The route takes the centre line of an amazing slab at the back of the quarry. I have had around three or four sessions on it with one go on the route on a top rope which went great but it seems that as soon as I get on the sharp end the crus moves feel nails, understandably so for english 6c.

Tonight's efforts were pretty good considering the temperatures, but still no tick. The route involves a bit of a jump to a juggy ledge at the top from two very poor opposing crimps with your gear at your feet. It is totally safe even if a bit bold at the top. Sadly due to the very sandy top out you end up either having to clip a pre placed rope hanging from the top or traverse the sandy break off to the right. I have put a few pictures of our attempts tonight. I have decided to leave this as an open project for now as I seem to have hit a bit of a brick wall with the top move.

Jacks first attempt was very close.

His second was even closer.

Me Chalking up ready for the Crux moves.

Has summer really arrived.

Wow what a weekend for the weather, Saturday was such a scorcher and Sunday was even warmer. My weekend started with the plan to head to Stanage in the Peak District with the thought of climbing as many steady routes as possible, this plan changed drastically when I got into Sheffield to see that the early morning fog had not lifted. Having been prepared for every eventuality and having a full car (no wonder my fuel doesn't go very far) I decide to go for a run from Redmires Reservoirs up onto Stanage pole. A great little run that gave time for the mist to lift. I decided once back at the car I would go over to Burbage south after all of about half hour I was ready for somewhere a bit cooler, only one place for it, Stoney Middleton. I headed back to the car via the Ice Cream van, of course.

Sunday was a bit of an epic trip to the Roaches. Not my favorite crag, for some reason every time I go my head goes and I climb very poor. I ended up climbing a great VS and then going over to the far right hand end to try Wings of Unreason. After a very poor attempt, this means not even getting on to the slab, my friends Pat and Chris had a go. Very reluctantly Chris got on Wings and gave it a very valiant effort, he was trying to save it until he was ready for it. The weather as it was really wasnt the best for the for slab climbing, after around 35 minutes stood in the top pockets he made a jump for the top. Sadly Sunday was not to be the day for him, but what an effort.

Chris on the top Crux of Wings

Great HVS to the left of Wings

First Sign of Summer

Its great to see the weather has held out over the last couple of weeks and I have been trying to make the most of it. Tonight I have been to Snowdon Crags with a friend from work. Its a great little north facing moorland crag just outside of Otley. I ticked a couple of good problems this evening, JCB, Naked Yoga and Bodger. JCB is a great dynamic problem with a hard as nails top out, one for the mantle experts. The tops outs do seem to follow suit at Snowdon, round, bold and very green, they are good fun though. Naked Yoga is also a problem worth seeking out, it has a hard sit start hard start followed by some great climbing on very unexpectedly fun holds, holds that I would not normally expect on the 

Grit.

All in all a great evening out after work, will be going again soon. 

Sam on Bodger, supposedly 5+ more like 6a+, total grovel fest for the top out.